Butter First
In the mountain villages of Georgia, cooking begins with butter from the churn. It browns the chicken, enriches the bread, and carries every spice.
Pull a chair up to the supra, the long Georgian table where the Caucasus feeds its guests. Everything here is cooked the old way, with real butter, gently clarified ghee, and the walnuts and wine that flavor every valley kitchen. No seed oils, ever.
In the mountain villages of Georgia, cooking begins with butter from the churn. It browns the chicken, enriches the bread, and carries every spice.
Erbo, the clarified butter of the Caucasus larder, takes high heat without breaking and gives stews a depth no refined oil can imitate.
No seed oils, no shortcuts. Only the traditional fats that Georgian grandmothers have trusted since long before the modern bottle arrived.
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Six beloved dishes from the valleys and mountain villages of Georgia, each cooked with the honest fats that bring out the best in every ingredient.
Spicy braised beef
The peppery beef stew of Georgian taverns. Chunks of beef are seared hard in butter, then simmered slowly with tomatoes, onions, and warm spices until the sauce turns glossy and deep.
Trout in tarragon butter
River trout the way the mountain guesthouses serve it. Crisped skin down in foaming butter, finished with tarragon, garlic, and a scatter of pomegranate seeds.
Eggplant walnut rolls
The cold appetizer no supra begins without. Ribbons of eggplant fried in olive oil, rolled around a garlicky walnut paste, and jeweled with pomegranate.
Beef and walnut soup
Georgia's most famous soup. Beef simmered until tender, thickened with ground walnuts and rice, and soured gently with plum, all built on a butter and onion base.
Mother's hearth bread
The everyday loaf of the Georgian village, named for the mothers who baked it. A slow risen crusty round, brushed with melted butter the moment it leaves the oven.
Sweet spiced holiday bread
The perfumed sweet bread sold warm along the road through Surami. A soft butter dough scented with cinnamon and clove, studded with raisins, and glazed until glossy.
Dopeva Supra is a small home kitchen devoted to the cooking of Georgia and the Caucasus, where a meal is never just a meal. It is a supra, a table set for guests, with toasts raised in wine and platters that keep arriving long after everyone claims to be full. We write these recipes down the way they are still cooked between the mountains and the vineyards, slowly, generously, and without hurry.
Our only house rule is an old one: butter from the churn, ghee clarified on a low flame, good olive oil, and nothing else. Vegetable oil never comes through our door, because it never sat on the tables we learned from.
Gaumarjos, may your table always be full.
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